day 9: a date with mr universe of bagan

U Thaung Lewin, directly translated Mr Universe (man on the left), is a 64-year-old passionate retired English teacher and free-lance tourist guide.

Termed as the 'Master of all Guides', our hotel host told us that many younger guides would go to Mr Universe if they had questions on history, culture or the English language. He was also mentioned in one of the Lonely Planet guidebooks.

We were lucky to get Mr Universe to give us an overview of Bagan and it's history.

Spending close to an hour at our first stop, Shwezigon Paya, Mr Universe gave a comprehensive lesson on how the 42nd King Anawrahta unified the country in 1044 and built this first grand temple. He ushered in the golden age and also made Buddhism the national religion.

Mr Universe is a serious Buddhist who dedicates his entire being into learning the teachings of the fourth Buddha, living it out and spreading it. Naturally, much of what he shared was on Buddhism.

His warmth and sincerity was overflowing. Not only did he invite us to the annual celebration where people paid respect to the retired teachers, he also invited us to his home for dinner.

Zedis, or centres of worship, and other attractions we saw today included:

• Shwezigon Paya - the prototype of many pegodas to come
• Buddhist-regulated Orphanage - headed by one of the descendants of the Kings who has the original and rare crystals from the Buddha's blood
• Htilominlo Phato - a 46 metre tall red bricked Zedi
• Amanda Phato - the best-preserved temple with the two face of Buddha
• Shwesandaw Paya - where we watched the sun set at the peak of pyramid-style pagoda

Thoroughly enjoyable - to spend the day exploring Bagan on the back of a horse cart with a knowledgeable and passionate local guide.

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 15,000 kyat - horse cart for a day
• US$25 - One day tour by Tourist Guide Mr Universe
• 11,300 kyat - lunch for Mr Universe, Bun and I at Golden Myanmar in Old Bagan
• 6500 kyat - dinner for two at Fuji which serves pretty authentic Japanese cuisine

day 2: golden yangon

'Shwe' means gold and 'dagon' is the old name for Yangon, says Win, our Burmese guide.

Win picked us up at the Foreigners' Entrance of Shwedagon Paya, the glorious gold-gilded national symbol. Standing at 98 metres tall on a hill, it is the tallest architecture which could be seen from all corners of Yangon. Not even the modern Traders Hotel or Sakura Tower could beat its height.

Win, a gentle Burmese man with a young two year-old daughter, is a certified tour guide. In an hour, he took us around the Paya, explaining the history and culture of the Burmese.

With a little matrix, he calculated I was born on a Sunday, which is represented by the powerful Garuda. Bun is born on Tuesday, the day of the Lion, signifying honesty.

It looked like a popular destination for family picnics. Lots of local Burmese sat on shaded cool marble ground, around good spreads of silver tong-kats filled with rice, vegetables, curries and more.

If we had known, we would have prepared a basket too!

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 300 kyat - 30 mins at internet cafe
• 1500-2000 kyat - taxi rides
• 5000 kyat - entrance fee to Shwedagon Paya
• 5000 kyat - one-hour guide by Win *star buy for today*
• 6700 kyat - lunch for two at Feel Myanmar Food, the local version of economic rice
• 1000 kyat - rickshaw rides
• 7350 kyat - road side BBQ dinner in Chinatown
• 1500 kyat - groceries from supermarket in preparation for our train ride
• US$22 - one night at White House Hotel