day 14: yangon in ten minutes

For a 360-view of Yangon city, the Sky Bistro is the perfect place.

This cafe on the 20th storey of Sakura Tower looks like an undressed ballroom of a hotel. Uninspiring blue carpet with tables lining the windows, and an expensive menu.

We paid 3,000 kyat (slightly over US$4) each for our iced coffee. I wanted their home-made New York Cheesecake but it wasn't available.

Despite the underwhelming ambience, it is still worthwhile to get a bird's eye view of Yangon while escaping the heat.

From where I was sitting, I could see the golden Shwedagon, the stadium, the railway station, the Kandawgyi Lake, and on the opposite side of the cafe the Yangon River.

The cafe doesn't allow tourists to walk in for a free view so be prepared to pay. Set lunches are approximately 7,000 kyat per person.

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 9,700 kyat - club sandwich and duck noodles at Zawgyi House
• 3,000 kyat - Chinese-Burmese book for Mr Universe
• 2,000 kyat - postage cost to Bagan
• 12,000 kyat - sunset dinner at Junior Duck overlooking the Yangon River
• US$22 - stay at White House

day 11: express bagan

We were too lazy to cycle seven kilometres into Old Bagan and around, so we decided to hire the horse cart for another day.

Today, we speedily covered seventeen Zedis around Old Bagan, Central Plain and Myinkaba.

Some were highly recommended under the top Zedis to visit by Lonely Planet, others were un-named and only marked as a number on the map

Nonetheless, each has it's unique characteristic, such as wall painting, narrow stairs to terrace which overlooks the river or other Zedis, oversized Buddha statues, etc. In order of visit, they are:

1. 233 and 234

2. 2007

3. Upalithein - structure reinforced by UNESCO

4. Khaymingha

5. Thatbyinnyu Temple

6. Minyeingon

7. Pahtothamy

8. Mimalaung Kyaung

9. Gawdawpalin

10. Bu Paya

11. Maha Bodi Pagoda

12. Manuha Temple

13. Nanpaya

14. Gubyaukgyi

15. Dhammayangyi Pahto

16. Sulamani Pahto

Midway stop to watch the hot air balloons

17. Buledi - for the finale sunset









Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 15,000 kyat - horse cart and driver for a day
• 6,700 kyat - lunch for two at sarabha restaurant in old bagan
• 4,500 kyat - bbq dinner for two at Shwe Yar Su along Restaurant Row

day 9: a date with mr universe of bagan

U Thaung Lewin, directly translated Mr Universe (man on the left), is a 64-year-old passionate retired English teacher and free-lance tourist guide.

Termed as the 'Master of all Guides', our hotel host told us that many younger guides would go to Mr Universe if they had questions on history, culture or the English language. He was also mentioned in one of the Lonely Planet guidebooks.

We were lucky to get Mr Universe to give us an overview of Bagan and it's history.

Spending close to an hour at our first stop, Shwezigon Paya, Mr Universe gave a comprehensive lesson on how the 42nd King Anawrahta unified the country in 1044 and built this first grand temple. He ushered in the golden age and also made Buddhism the national religion.

Mr Universe is a serious Buddhist who dedicates his entire being into learning the teachings of the fourth Buddha, living it out and spreading it. Naturally, much of what he shared was on Buddhism.

His warmth and sincerity was overflowing. Not only did he invite us to the annual celebration where people paid respect to the retired teachers, he also invited us to his home for dinner.

Zedis, or centres of worship, and other attractions we saw today included:

• Shwezigon Paya - the prototype of many pegodas to come
• Buddhist-regulated Orphanage - headed by one of the descendants of the Kings who has the original and rare crystals from the Buddha's blood
• Htilominlo Phato - a 46 metre tall red bricked Zedi
• Amanda Phato - the best-preserved temple with the two face of Buddha
• Shwesandaw Paya - where we watched the sun set at the peak of pyramid-style pagoda

Thoroughly enjoyable - to spend the day exploring Bagan on the back of a horse cart with a knowledgeable and passionate local guide.

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 15,000 kyat - horse cart for a day
• US$25 - One day tour by Tourist Guide Mr Universe
• 11,300 kyat - lunch for Mr Universe, Bun and I at Golden Myanmar in Old Bagan
• 6500 kyat - dinner for two at Fuji which serves pretty authentic Japanese cuisine

day 7.5: underground performance

We finally spotted the sign 'The Moustache Brothers' and a man who couldn't speak English led us to the backstreet behind a BBQ restaurant.

"The show starts at 8.30pm," says another man. "Come early about 8.10pm if you want a good seat or you can reserve by buying tickets now." I wanted to watch it for sure, so Bun paid him 16,000 kyat for two of us and we got a name card with some scribbling on the reverse as a ticket in return.

The man who sold us the tickets turned out to be Lu Maw, the only English-speaking member of the Moustache Brothers. He was the lead for the entirely entertaining and hilarious 1.5 hours live comedy.

Our favourite parts were the anti-government jokes. This was also why the other two members Par Par Lay and Lu Saw were arrested and jailed.

When Lu Maw is not making fun of the corrupted and greedy Burmese government, traditional folk dances were performed by the sister and wives of the trio.

Lu Maw is extremely proud of his 42-year-old wife who was the 'Cover Girl' of an early edition of Lonely Planet.

Now in their early 60s, I wonder how long they would continue this show. In the meantime, the police leaves them alone as long as they continue to attract tourist dollars. Tonight was full-house with about 20 audience.

This is definitely worth your 8,000 kyat if you are in Mandalay. Shows go on every night at 8.30pm, be there early otherwise you might need to stand or squeeze in the back row. Bring mosquito repellent too.

day 7: 2000-year-old golden buddha

Cast as early as the first century AD, this Buddha image is a must-see if you are in Mandalay, recommends Lonely Planet.

The Mahamuni Paya, which the houses the statue is bustling with activities. Many women worshippers kneel praying and offering fruit and water. The men are permitted in the inner centre alter, where they could touch the statue and paste gold leaves on it.

Surrounding Mahamuni are bronze Khmer statues which I didn't find as interesting as a two-storey 'temple' housing a 3-D Asia map. There is a small alley behind with vendors selling a few different species of birds, including what looked like baby owls!

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 4,000 kyat - pick up from bus station to central Mandalay
• 1,100 kyat - dough fritters and egg prata breakfast
• 1,500-2,500 kyat - rickshaw rides
• 5,600 kyat - late lunch Chinese food at Mann Restaurant
• 2,000 kyat - mini pizza and curry puff at City Mart Seasons Cafe
• 8,000 kyat - live comedy by the Moustache Brothers (star buy)
• US$20 - stay at Sabai Phyu Hotel, good location with tea shops and food all around but no hot shower. Rooms are a little dusty, probably due to the construction of new rooms beside ours

day 5: the jumping cat of inle

I believe it used to be a worthy crowd puller. Today, a lady performs it instead of a monk. And the cat might have grown too fat to jump that high.

Nonetheless, it's still my favorite stop amongst the seven to eight on the one-day Inle tour.

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 12,000 kyat - one day tour of Inle Lake for two
• 8,000 kyat - lunch for two with pagoda view
• 5,000 kyat - scarf weaved by the women with long necks
• 2,900 kyat - dinner for two at roadside BBQ stall (cheapest meal so far)
• 12,000 kyat - Joy Hotel, nice balcony overlooking the busy canal while you have breakfast. Real hot water - which is essential at that temperature - comes and goes.

day 2: golden yangon

'Shwe' means gold and 'dagon' is the old name for Yangon, says Win, our Burmese guide.

Win picked us up at the Foreigners' Entrance of Shwedagon Paya, the glorious gold-gilded national symbol. Standing at 98 metres tall on a hill, it is the tallest architecture which could be seen from all corners of Yangon. Not even the modern Traders Hotel or Sakura Tower could beat its height.

Win, a gentle Burmese man with a young two year-old daughter, is a certified tour guide. In an hour, he took us around the Paya, explaining the history and culture of the Burmese.

With a little matrix, he calculated I was born on a Sunday, which is represented by the powerful Garuda. Bun is born on Tuesday, the day of the Lion, signifying honesty.

It looked like a popular destination for family picnics. Lots of local Burmese sat on shaded cool marble ground, around good spreads of silver tong-kats filled with rice, vegetables, curries and more.

If we had known, we would have prepared a basket too!

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 300 kyat - 30 mins at internet cafe
• 1500-2000 kyat - taxi rides
• 5000 kyat - entrance fee to Shwedagon Paya
• 5000 kyat - one-hour guide by Win *star buy for today*
• 6700 kyat - lunch for two at Feel Myanmar Food, the local version of economic rice
• 1000 kyat - rickshaw rides
• 7350 kyat - road side BBQ dinner in Chinatown
• 1500 kyat - groceries from supermarket in preparation for our train ride
• US$22 - one night at White House Hotel