day 8: cruising down Ayeyarwady

After spending US$32 on a rocky and dirty night train, we were not entirely confident when we handed over US$40 each for the Shwe Keinnery Express Ferry.

The nine-hour ferry departs daily at either 7am or 8am. We bought tickets for the later boat through our hotel.

It turned out that the ferry only serves foreigners, so seats are comfortable, decks are spacious, restaurant on board provides good (though a little pricey) service, and restrooms are decent. The one which we were on today had less than half its capacity of 120 seats.

The width of the river was narrow, so we spent most of our time on the upper deck, just watching the coast. People washing clothes, cows grazing, cluster of stupas standing tall and more.

The journey ended with a gorgeous sun set as we pulled into Bagan.

And Inn Wa's hospitable host was at the jetty, smiling with a sign that reads 'Kelly +1'.

I have a feeling I'm going to love this place.

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 5,000 kyat - taxi from Central Mandalay to jetty
• US$40 - Shwe Keinnery Express Ferry ticket
• 3,000 kyat - bowl of bee hoon soup and tea for breakfast on board
• 8,000 kyat - fried rice and noodles for lunch
• 8,400 kyat - dinner with puppet show for two

day 7.5: underground performance

We finally spotted the sign 'The Moustache Brothers' and a man who couldn't speak English led us to the backstreet behind a BBQ restaurant.

"The show starts at 8.30pm," says another man. "Come early about 8.10pm if you want a good seat or you can reserve by buying tickets now." I wanted to watch it for sure, so Bun paid him 16,000 kyat for two of us and we got a name card with some scribbling on the reverse as a ticket in return.

The man who sold us the tickets turned out to be Lu Maw, the only English-speaking member of the Moustache Brothers. He was the lead for the entirely entertaining and hilarious 1.5 hours live comedy.

Our favourite parts were the anti-government jokes. This was also why the other two members Par Par Lay and Lu Saw were arrested and jailed.

When Lu Maw is not making fun of the corrupted and greedy Burmese government, traditional folk dances were performed by the sister and wives of the trio.

Lu Maw is extremely proud of his 42-year-old wife who was the 'Cover Girl' of an early edition of Lonely Planet.

Now in their early 60s, I wonder how long they would continue this show. In the meantime, the police leaves them alone as long as they continue to attract tourist dollars. Tonight was full-house with about 20 audience.

This is definitely worth your 8,000 kyat if you are in Mandalay. Shows go on every night at 8.30pm, be there early otherwise you might need to stand or squeeze in the back row. Bring mosquito repellent too.

day 7: 2000-year-old golden buddha

Cast as early as the first century AD, this Buddha image is a must-see if you are in Mandalay, recommends Lonely Planet.

The Mahamuni Paya, which the houses the statue is bustling with activities. Many women worshippers kneel praying and offering fruit and water. The men are permitted in the inner centre alter, where they could touch the statue and paste gold leaves on it.

Surrounding Mahamuni are bronze Khmer statues which I didn't find as interesting as a two-storey 'temple' housing a 3-D Asia map. There is a small alley behind with vendors selling a few different species of birds, including what looked like baby owls!

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 4,000 kyat - pick up from bus station to central Mandalay
• 1,100 kyat - dough fritters and egg prata breakfast
• 1,500-2,500 kyat - rickshaw rides
• 5,600 kyat - late lunch Chinese food at Mann Restaurant
• 2,000 kyat - mini pizza and curry puff at City Mart Seasons Cafe
• 8,000 kyat - live comedy by the Moustache Brothers (star buy)
• US$20 - stay at Sabai Phyu Hotel, good location with tea shops and food all around but no hot shower. Rooms are a little dusty, probably due to the construction of new rooms beside ours

day 6: luxury coach to mandalay

After the six-hour local minibus ride, it cannot get any worse (I hope). And anything can be counted as luxury.

It's not Grassland, we didn't get massage chairs and each seat couldn't fit one-and-a-half me, but it has everything that you need.

Booked through Joy Hotel, 22,000 kyat got us two seats on the night bus from Inle Lake to Mandalay.

Seats are assigned, so book early to get front ones which are cushioned from the bumpy road. We booked two days ahead and got Seats 25 and 26, fourth row from the back.

The ticket indicated 6pm but we were early just to be safe. The wait at the cafe was comfortable and served the best chicken with dried chilli. Good sized chunks of chicken and cauliflower, green peppers and tomato.

The bus only got to Shwenyang Junction about 7pm.

Each passenger is given a bottle of mineral water, a small pillow and impressively a night pack with toothbrush, mini toothpaste and a wet wipe!

The 12-hour ride was smooth and I managed to sleep most of it, except for the two 20-minute stops for food and toilet.

And as Lonely Planet also warns, it is really a good idea to bring a good blanket. It was freezing and raining outside, yet at some stage the driver switched on the air condition as if we were in Singapore.

Cost (US$1 = 750 kyat):

• 9,000 kyat - lunch for two at Smiling Moon. I had meatball pasta which tasted very much like sweet and sour pork
• 6,000 kyat - pick up to Shwenyang junction
• 4,000 kyat - coffee and dinner at cafe while waiting for bus
• 11,000 kyat - a seat on the Inle-Mandalay coach